Pacific Grace Trip 4 2008

It was once mentioned to me that August on the west coast should really be called "Foggest". Today our west coast lived up to every bit of this description. After boarding all of our trainees in Port Hardy we headed north and enjoyed a short speedy sail before the fog set in. Just before lowering sail we were charging along at nine knots in visability no more than a boats length,( 100 ft). Being the first day and given that we were in a busy section of the coast, the prudent choice was to lower sail and and continue to our anchorage under power, this being no small task as the visibility was reduced even more soon after lowering. We were headed to Allison Harbour, 25 miles north of Port Hardy on the mainland coast. Not until we had navigated through numerous rock piles and narrow passages did the fog release its grip on us and allow everyone to enjoy the remaining hours of sunshine as we entered our anchorage for the night. We left the fog at the "door" and had a wonderful eveing with games, singing and double chocolate chip cookies made by Jacob and Sean. Trainees did an admirable job today amidst the difficulties of having to steer by compass in the fog during thier first chance at the wheel. All are well and look forward to a dory trip up the nearby lagoon tomorrow for a swim in a quiet secluded lake.

Today began with a calm,clear sunny morning. After breakfast dories were launched and all headed ashore for a swim in the nearby lake. We have been closly monitoring the weather lately trying to find a window to pass around the top end of Vancouver Island. Recently there have been strong wind warnings heralding the aproach of contrary south east winds which we are not interested in battling. Today we found the window needed to pass around Cape Scott and make our way down to Winter Harbour on the west coast of the Island. During our passage from Allison Hrb. to Cape Scott we were graced by a typical west coast wildlife show. In the morning we watched as an Osprey snatched fish from the quiet waters of our anchorage. Along our route a mother Orca and two calves took a moment to do some fishing near to the Grace. On four separate occations Humpback whales swam alongside for a look and a little futher on numerous sealions barked a hello as we aproached the north west tip of Vancouver Island. Our day was rounded out nicely as a pod of White Sided Dolfins welcomed us into the open ocean. As conditions were ideal we continued into the night making our anchorage near Winter Harbour by 0130 Saturday morning. As the Grace approach the anchorage I asked the young girl at the wheel where she was from and how she found out about the trip. Her response was that she lives in L.A. and that her dad had sailed with SALTS 24 years ago on the Robertson II. After a little more discussion we figured that I had sailed with her dad during my early years with SALTS. This was a great discovery for us both. Thanks to all who have supported this organization over the past 24 years, the next generation has arrived!
All are well.
Tony

Our last couple of days have been very full with plenty of excitement. Yesterday morning all spent time learning either chartwork or rules of the road. After lunch the rest of the day was spent tramping through the forest on a hike near Winter Harbour. Today we weighed anchor at 0800hrs and proceeded to our faavorite fishing hole four miles out to sea. Our efforts were rewarded with two lovely salmon, one to be eaten tonight and one that will be smoked in the ships small smoker for enjoyment tomorrow. As we made our way around Brooks Penninsula again the wildlife welcomed us. Tuffted Puffins took flight as the Grace slipped in towards Solander Island to visit the large Stellar sealion colony that occupies the northern end. Shortly afterwards a mother Humpback whale with her small calf swam alongside the Grace for a look. Our afternoon took and exciting turn when we stopped to view a very large Sun fish, close to 300lbs. At the height of excitement Jordan our Mate donned his wetsuit and jumped in the water to try and coax the large fish closer so trainees could get a better look. All went well and everyone had terrific views of this very odd looking fish measuring 6-8 feet long and 4 feet wide, in the shape of an oval. Yes, just another day on the Grace, cruising the west coast. All are well and becomming closer as a group with each day of the voyage.
Tony

After our wrestling match with the Sunfish yesterday we enjoyed a glorious sail around the tip of Brooks Pen. and anchored near Battle River in an unnamed bay on the Acus Peninsula. Our evening closed with Eagles watching from nearby crags and Sea Otters swimming by with thier latest catch balanced on their tummies. Today after some more lessons in the morning we traveled further south to Rugged Point, a long, wide sandy beach similar to Long Beach on Vancouver Island.  On the way down a great discussion was initiated on the topic of sharing some of the experiences that have helped to shape us into the people we are. Everyone was very honest and open in sharing with others. A great time to learn more about each other. We had Rugged Beach to ourselves and following a couple of group games together we had the chance to stroll and investigate this isolated paradise. Back to the Grace for dinner and the chance to welcome the Swift alongside for the night. Tonight we will have mug-up together and give our groups the chance to mingle and get to know each other.

Our evening with the Swift was enjoyable for both trainees and crew. Games included both boats as did singing once everyone piled down into the Grace´s hold. Close to eighty people singing mugup songs for over an hour, many instruments and the sweet sweet smell of shortbread cookies dipped in chocolate being prepared in the galley. Most of yesterday was spent motoring south against a 15kt headwind. Our efforts were rewarded with a long hot soak in the pools of Hot Springs Cove. After supper all hands strolled the mile long boardwalk through the rain forest to the pools, wonderfully located with a view out to the open ocean.  After a two hour soak our senses were reawaken by a walk home to the Grace through the dark forest. Very quiet with beautiful tree silhouettes and silvered cedar boardwalk leading the way. Yesterday Humpback whales again made their daily appearance with a spectacular breaching display. One mum and her calf were breaching with half to three quarters of their bodies clear of the water. Today began early for the few that wanted to be a part of an early visit to the Hot Springs for a morning dip. Today is boat Sunday so that also means a bit of a sleep in, pancakes and bacon for breakfast, roast beef for dinner and Sunday service tonight. Never a dull moment.

Yesterday we reluctantly left Hot Springs Cove at 1400hrs and headed south to spend the night near Blunden Island about 5 miles north of Tofino. Gillian and Sean outdid themselves and served a fabulous Roast Beef dinner with all the trimmings. Daily whale shows again today followed by regular Harbour Seal visits while at anchor. After dinner dishes all mustered down below for Sunday Service (today is boat Sunday, day 7). Exams were on the agenda for this morning after which we spent most of the day sailing down the coast to the Broken Islands of Barkley Sound. We had sunshine, fog, clear weather and wind. On our final approach into the islands all hands stood ready at their positions while the Grace charged along at over 9kts. We sailed to within a boats length of our anchorage before the wind died which forced us to lower and start the engines. Our final couple of hours of sailing were delightful, clear weather, warm sunshine and spectacular island views with large swells covering the lower lying rocks with foam filled spray. Mug up is underway at present as we watch the sun set over the open Pacific.
Till tomorrow. Tony

A slow morning today with the SALTS store opening after breakfast and us not leaving the anchorage until 1100hrs. We spent the rest of the day sailing with full sail all through the islands of Barkley Sound. We had the chance to sail every point of sail including a long period of running with both topsails flying. Old fisherman called this "readin both pages" as the main is out to one side and the fore out to the other forming what looks like a book out in front of everyone. This point of sail is also what is represented on the SALTS logo, symbolizing the balance we are trying to achieve between our physical and spiritual selves. Our sail came to an idyllic end as we slid into Toquart Bay and anchored under sail, a very peaceful end to a perfect day. Before supper all enjoyed a swim in the warm waters of upper Barkley Sound, warm enough to remain in the water for over 20 min. A delicious dinner of curried chicken, rice and veggies rounded out our day. As we meet one last time for mug-up in the hold some are feeling that the trip has gone much too fast and would like to continue for longer. A good sign after a great trip. Thank you parents for lending us your kids for this short period. They are wonderful young people, full of life. We have enjoyed their company.
Tony