Pacific Swift 2009 - Trip 3

The Swift´s annual circumnavigation of Vancouver Island began with the embarkation of 28 excited trainees yesterday morning in sunny Victoria. There are a surprising number of returning trainees on board, with only 5 people joining us for the first time! Hopes are high that the degree of experience will lend itself well to the voyage. All trainees were very welcoming and ready to embrace the shipmates and adventures to come. We departed Victoria around 1400 to the distant waves of the remaining parents and well wishers. The afternoon passed swiftly with junior and intermediate knots lessons prior to dinner. Jackets where slowly discarded as we moved away from the chilly air of the Juan de Fuca. The breeze was calm, so we motored north through Active Pass . The aim was doing a night run to reach the southern rim of Desolation Sound. We were pleasantly surprised, after exiting Active Pass, to find a nice little SE breeze opposed to the moderate NW that was forecasted.  All hands wasted no time and amid a backdrop of rich oranges and purples, all available sails were shaken out. We glided north under courses, squaretop, main and maintop as the trainees and crew marveled at the warmly back lit sails. We continued undersail for several hours while mugup (games and singing) trundled on. As the day wound down near midnight so went the breeze and all hands turned to, to take in sail for the night. The work was done under crisp stars and a sliver of moon while the phosphorescence swirled about us leaving the sea ablaze in twinkling green. Once sails were tidied and stowed everyone was sent below for cookies and hot chocolate.  The rest of the night passed uneventfully with only the glow of the binnacle and a few tugboats and cruise ships for company. Dawn broke gloriously amid the hills and mountains of Malaspina Strait. The morning was left to more lessons and settling in to the rhythm of shipboard life. After lunch we found calm waters and rest at Savary Island where our anchor settled on its sandy bottom. No time was wasted as the dories were launched and put ashore to stretch our legs on the fabled beaches. All reports are that all watches performed very well in the small boats. Once back aboard the anchor was hove up to shape a course for Teakearne Arm in the heart of Desolation Sounds.The plan is to raft up to the Grace in front of the rush of Cassel Lake falls and enjoy and evening of hearty games and singing with the crew and trainees of the other ship. The weather has been more than lovely and there are many a rosy cheek to attest to the beautiful sunshine. The trip has been busy and enjoyable so far, with everyone looking forward to taking a break in the waters of Cassel Lake and bathing in the falls tommorow.

Last night was spent in enjoyable company with the Pacific Grace,
swimming. playing electricity and having a rousing mugup on deck.
Today´s plan was to take advantage of the aquatic features of  Teakerne
Arm. First stop was the beautiful setting of Cassel Falls. The warm
waters cascade down a rock face to mix with the clear ocean. The power
of the falls is perfect so that one can walk beneath the falls and get a
hearty scrubbing and massage without being overwhelmed. As the sun
continued to gain in strength and warmth we put off for the source of
the falls, a dip in Cassel Lake. Much fun was had splashing in the tepid
waters and several trainees passed their intermediate swim tests. After
saying goodbye to friends new and old from the Grace, we decided to put
the warm breeze to good use. We set all fore and afters and beat our way
north. It was a great day for sail training and all hands did a great
job of handling the ship through the many tacks of the day. Trainees had
an opportunity to loose and furl topsails and headsails,  working high
in the rig and a chance to challenge some fears. The scenery deep in
Desolation Sound was so irresistible that a dory was launched with some
avid photographers to attempt to capture the feeling of sailing a tall
ship under full sail, in a warm breeze surrounded by steep and wooded
hills. After a couple lessons we shaped a course for an exploratory
anchorage at Rendez-vous Islands and sailed right up to our anchorage.
The setting is beautiful with small islets, long channels, and steep
mountain peaks keeping company with Swift  This fabulous day was capped
with a delicious lasagna and garlic bread dinner and hopes of another
swim stop in the offing. Secret friends will be handed out tonight, but
already the trainees are starting to gel nicely and grow together as a
community.

I must start by saying words will fall tragically short to capture
today. Yesterday ended with perhaps the best night sky we have seen all
year. With no city lights or moon the sky had a crisp clarity that
allowed the milky way to shine bright and see stars most people have
never had the opportunity to observe. Forward watch rose early to weigh
anchor and begin our journey up Bute Inlet. Bute Inlet is a 40 NM fjord
that runs almost due north and terminates below the glaciers of the
Homathko Snowfield with a latitude above Vancouver Island. The night sky
held its clarity through dawn allowing for unsurpassable views of the
many peaks, glaciers and waterfalls en route. Every 5 minutes would
bring dramatic change to the scenery as valleys and views would open and
close.The water as well changed chameleon-like as we moved northward,
starting as startling rich evergreen, transitioning to deep teal and
eventually a steely blue. When we thought things couldn´t improve on the
scenery a fine following breeze sprung up and the squaresails were set.
However, before the last gasket of the topsail could be loosed by
excited trainees, the cry of "dolphins!" rang out. Unbelievably we were
suddenly surrounded by a pod of 50 or so dolphins leaping clear of the
contrasting milky waters. It was a scene of indescribable beauty.
Finally the topsail was sheeted home and we proceeded in company with
our playful companions for several overwhelming minutes, before they
resumed their course down the inlet. The breeze eased as we approached a
tall waterfall nestled in a wooded nook along the steep shores. The
Swift nosed close inshore as Jordan the mate led a spontaneous swim stop
into the cold yet and mostly fresh water. Soon all hands followed and
emerged much refreshed from the heat of the day. It would been an ideal
spot to stop had not the depth far exceeded the scope of our chain, even
a 100 feet from shore. Yet we were called onward, picking up the breeze
again and enjoying a nice sail in the ever increasing beauty.
Evergreens, raw granite, snow and ice were the palette of the shoreline.
Close to the head of the inlet we were drawn to investigate one more
waterfall. The intrepid bosun Steve was put ashore to assess the
landscape. A hearty thumbs up led the way for a full scale expedition to
explore the falls by the ship´s company. It was a beautiful wonder of
nature as its turbulent waters rushed into the dramatic scene of, inlet,
mountains and a very diminutive Swift. Once the wonders of the falls had
been absorbed the Swift hopped  north to find rest in arguably the most
magestic anchorage on the coast. Waddington Harbour is 3 miles wide and
completely encircled by glaciers, valleys, peaks and a sense of wonder
that is beyond ken. I wonder what tomorrow will bring?

We were left wondering, "What will tomorrow bring?". How could
yesterday be matched? The answer...
Morning started at 0630 as port watched rubbed the sleep from their
eyes, to be reminded of the watchful gaze of the surrounding glaciers.
The dawn was warm and clear with sun grazing the snowy peaks of our
anchorage. There was a gentle sense of slowly awakening giants. As the
chain rumbled in the hawsepipe, a gentle breeze stirred the calm waters
of the inlet. Port watched showed great enthusiasm and no sooner was the
anchor fished aboard then the square topsail was loosed and courses
hanked on. As the squares rose, so too did the sun first fall down the
steep slopes to illuminate the billowing canvas. By the time the topsail
was sheeted home, the breeze had freshened and we were making 9 knots.
The views of sunrise under sail could not be enjoyed by port watch
alone, so all hands were roused to set the main and the maintopsail. We
were blessed with one of the finest sails of the year as we rushed down
Bute inlet´s green waters, working diligently to take advantage of the
many shifts and gusts flowing from the valleys. The views were equal to
yesterday, however the rush of handling the ship under full sail at 8-10
knots, had everyone charged up. The trainees worked exceptionally well
as a team and individuals as they became increasingly aware and
proficient in working the many demands of their speeding home. In was a
treat indeed to be able to sail both up and down the inlet. At last the
breeze dropped astern at the bottom of the inlet and the trainees
scrambled aloft alone to furl the topsails of their ship. Such good time
was made that we had some  to fill before making slack water through a
series of mid-island rapids. Gently drifting in the current the final 4
miles to the rapids, the blazing sun gave inspiration to one of the
finest swim stops of the year. With the Swift easing through the
beautiful channels, we lept overboard into the refreshingly chilled
depths. Finally the rapids approached and we scrambled aboard, many
through the headrig, like so many aspiring buccaneers. The rapids were
uneventful as planned and we have now tucked into Frederick Arm. Still
inspiring glacial views are with us as we begin to cool down in the
welcome evening shade. The trainees are growing together well through
the many new and shared experiences. Last night was spent in a raucous
game of pictionary and then a great group discussion. All are very well
and in great spirits.
Happy Birthday to Mrs.Skipper!

Another warm morning under the rising sun brought early thoughts of
finding ways to cool down. Sun tarps have been a regular fixture when we
are not sailing, trying to create a little shade for our lobstered
hides. A further expedition was called, some say it was to discover the
West Pole, others to explore Estero Basin at the head of the Arm. The
dories, with ever increasing efficiency, headed for the basin
(essentially a fresh water lake, with a splash of salt water added at
high water). There is a narrow section of diminutive rapids where we
were forced to disembark the dories to clear some shallow overfalls. We
were shocked to discover that the clear chilly looking outflow was
actually bathtub warm! With increased enthusiasm we forged ahead finally
hoisting the dories into the tepid lake. It was a lovely row a mile or
so deep into the lake as a sense of grandeur pressed down from a
remarkably sheer rock face that presided over one side of the lake. We
found a rocky point where the boats could land.A joyful time was passed
swimming in the soothing water and exploring the shoreline. A hearty row
brought us back to the rapids and each watch devised ingenuities to
travel their dory safely and joyously downstream. A sticky afternoon was
spent with some languid sailing as we approached our final set of rapids
and reviewed for the forthcoming junior and intermediate tests. Our
anchorage has achieved a long sought after goal...solitude. We abandoned
one pretty anchorage in favour of a new one, where no yachts, houses or
artificial intrusion are visible. We are hanging on a small estuary,
clinging to the edge of the depths of Loughborough Inlet. It´s
magnificent with views up and down the inlet of the peaks and valleys we
have come to love over the last several days. We inaugerated our freedom
with a refreshing dip and unveiling  the epic rope swing.  It is a
wonderful feeling to be "alone" with a contained community in the heart
of this wild coast.

Day seven on board is otherwise known as "boat Sunday". What Sunday
would be complete without a little sleep-in? We were up and underway
with fore watch at 0745 but the other watches were left to their sabbath
slumber till a 0900 one sitting breakfast. Day 7 is our beloved cook
Amanda´s day to outshine herself. She started off with a fabulous
pancake and berry spread, and will conclude with a gourmet presentation
of roast beef, yorkshire pudding, mashed potatoes, carrots and various
and sundry fixin´s. We popped out of our narrow confines to the
Johnstone Strait, where we were greeted by another unforecasted
following breeze. Squares and main were run up and we skimmed along at
6.5 knots under the still shining sun. As we were marveling at our good
sailing fortune, we were blessed with a Johnstone Strait fixture, the
orca whale. After a lively spotting, we were forced to turn round to get
a closer look at the 8 or so rapidly moving whales. Sails were clewed up
in a jiffy as we had the opportunity to watch the whales feeding close
inshore. Due to the southerly course of the orcas, we left them after a
time and set sail again for anchorage in Havannah Channel. As we closed
with the bay and its emerald hills of mixed evergreens and deciduous
trees, we looked incredulously aloft at a strange sight. Clouds. Our
first cloud in 7 days closed rapidly and we find ourselves now on the
verge of a possible thunder shower. The sky is dramatically coloured
with muted oranges and breaking rays, while the closing rumble of
thunder mixes with the lonely call of the raven to echo around the bay.
Prior to a reward of that promised roast, all hands have turned their
minds to their sail training exams. Chartwork, navigation safety, sail
theory, terminology, tides and various other topics will be covered by
the aspiring writers. This evening a service will be held, hopefully
under twinkling stars again, if the thunder storm passes quickly.
Trainees are doing a great job, now fully settled with ship life and
increasingly turning to new challenges, both sail and life. Everyone is
feeling great and in fine spirits. It seems everyday is great day
aboard, with new lessons learned from one another.

Today marked a change in the trip as we left the protected inlets
and waters of the central island. The land has flattened dramatically
and the air has a coolness and salt nip that sent us running for long
forgotten sweaters and pants. Our passage northwestward today was
punctuated by several marine life sightings. We enjoyed several
porpoises, leaping salmon and a solitary, feeding orca who made a close
pass at the Swift. There are lots of handicrafts and ropework being
done, now that some time has been freed up post test date. All kinds of
intricate knots and fancywork are being attempted and perfected by the
trainees. We have anchored in the Pearse Islands, part of the Cormorant
Channel Marine Park. It is a wild and undeveloped location and the
dories set out once again to explore our surroundings. There were many
beautiful narrow channels weaving between rugged and battered islets.
The water was crystal clear allowing a glimpse to the sea floor below.
Bull Kelp waved gracefully in towering submarine forests. Some time was
spent exploring several of the islands and couple games and challenges
were undertaken in good spirits.  As we raced back to the Swift the
afternoon thunder storm moved in. We are now being washed by the first
rain we´ve had in what seems like months.  We are enjoying the change in
weather, hopefully it will pass us quickly.  Thunder reverberates around
us and lightning is visible over the distant valleys.