Pacific Swift 2009 - Trip 4

Trip 4 started with a trickle of familiar faces down to the Port
Hardy public wharf, eagerly awaiting the 1100 boarding time. There were
many friendships made and rekindled during the excited embarkation. Once
again we have many returning trainees and several new faces. However all
are being welcomed and included in the many aspects of shipboard life.  
With safety orientations completed, the lines were slipped and we pushed
off into the waters of Queen Charlotte Strait. With a favourable looking
forecast for rounding the top of Vancouver Island out to the west coast,
we motored north into a surprisingly cold breeze. Long forgotten
mittens, toques, scarves and other practical warming devices were
excavated to ward off the persistent and penetrating chill. Once across
Nahwitti Bar the pacific ocean started  its welcome with gentle
rollers.  The threatening clouds made good their promise and closed in
tight around the Swift, like a well bundled peacoat. The leaden sky and
sea merged so closely together that the horizon was almost
indistinguishable, and one had the feeling of sailing in an endless
smoky globe. All hands handled the swell very nicely and were able to
enjoy some light hearted games and hearty singing below. The weather
still holding fair, we rounded Cape Scott around 2230, as the beam from
it´s lofty beacon (surprisingly not installed till 1960) swept the gloom
high over the topmasts. The promised NW 20-30 knots ended up as a meager
2-3 knots, however we were able to eke out a little sail in the middle
of the night for a couple hours.  In the awakening dawn we ghosted into
Quatsino Sound and found still and calm waters in North Harbour. A
chartwork lesson completed early gave rise to the opportunity for an
epic expotition to Grant Bay. Grant Bay which has eluded is share of
aspiring explorers, is reached by the efforts of a long row, marsh walk,
followed by a dense rain forest hike, before one is dropped suddenly on
to a pristine white sand beach. The journey went very well, with a
remarkable display of first time rowing and endurance from all watches
to bring us close to the forest trail head. The trail weaves it
serpentine track through the heart of the temperate rain forest, where
the towering cedars, dense ferns and salal evoke a very ancient feeling.
The beach played host to some fun games, exploring and swimming as the
fog slowly rolled away to reveal the warmth of the sun, a frolicking
humpback and distant views of the Brooks Peninsula. All hands seem to be
settling well and are looking forward to evening programme at anchor and
the picking of secret friends.

We awoke early to find contrary conditions for passage around Brooks
Peninsula, though our immediate surroundings were calm and misty. The
news allowed forward watch to catch a little more sleep as plans now
allowed for a later departure. Our sights were focused on the closer
Klaskino Inlet, offering good protection and some fresh water bathing.
As we headed out into the monochromatic sea, we thought it couldn´t hurt
to throw a line of the stern. It turns out that the combination of a
headwind and surface shop slowed us to a perfect speed for salmon. We
were blessed with several beautiful fish and had to change our menu plan
to accommodate the bounty of the sea. It was very exciting and several
trainees and crew had opportunity to wrestle the energetic salmon to the
deck, some more fortunate than others. Liz deserves special commendation
for her excellent service cleaning and filleting the 5 fish on the
rolling deck. Once stuffed to the gills, we headed for the lone spot of
sunshine on the coast, which just happened to be our anchorage. Amidst
the heavy gray skies and charcoal seas, the valleys of Klaskino Inlet
were washed in a radiant golden light, striking through the clouds.
Navigating through the reefs and rocks, we have nestled into our
anchorage which holds a beautiful solitude and steeply spired forest.
The dories put ashore at the unassuming beach and river mouth. A much
shorter walk brought us out into a stunning wooded grotto with cascading
falls, gently tumbling from the many pools above the waiting swimming
hole. The fresh, clear water and rich green foliage would immediately
bring to mind a more tropical locale, were it not for the cool air and
the initial and shocked reports of the brave bathers, belying the
glacial qualities below the surface. However the temptation of beauty,
adventure and a shower lured almost all hands to screw up the courage
and plunge into the icy pool. Jordan the mate led a team of voyageurs up
the pools, to follow the cascades to their origin. The sentiment was
that the trip up the pools unveiled some of the most beautiful locales
of the coast. Feeling clean and refreshed we put back to the Swift
laying calmly on her, where once dories were weighed a warming mug of
hot chocolate was served out.  All hands are eagerly awaiting the fresh
salmon being prepared for tonight´s dinner. A sense of appreciation and
accomplishment mix well with hunger and the delicious smells wafting
from the galley. The trainees coped well with today´s seas with only one
or two mildly queasy tummies. The group has a calm, relaxed and
confident manner and we are excited to see how the community develops.

Again we awoke early to try to take advantage of a break in the
weather to pass round Brooks Peninsula. The conditions were more
favourable, so port watch hove the anchor aweigh as a few sea otters
casually watched us depart our snug anchorage. Within a couple of hours
we passed the lonely sentinel of the west coast, Solander Island. It is
a stark testament to the severity of the weather with it´s steep,
scoured and barren shores. Several sea lions didn´t disdain its narrow
and craggy shore though, finding it a fine place to haul out and take a
nap. Shortly after passing by, the weather closed in and we met a brisk
headwind and dense rain showers. Once again we were wrapped in the gray
cloak that can settle on this coast. Having cleared the peninsula we
were able to set a foresail to reduce the roll and gain some speed as
we motor-sailed into a building southeasterly. The long motor provided
opportunity for people to continue to build relationships as
conversations were shared and the rain and wind tried to find any
chinks in our west coast armor. The rain and mist cleared enough at one
point to see two humpbacks close by joyfully rollicking in the waves. 
The pair took turns rolling, splashing, waving flukes and flippers and launching out of  the water
for full breaches. It was a good reminder of the joy and beauty around
us.  We have seen many humpbacks over the last two days, some traveling
casually and others playing in their unique way. As we came abeam
Kyuquot Sound we were able at last to shut down the engine and bear
away under sail alone. It was beautiful to see colour returning to the
landscape as we came close inshore, the greens and browns emerging from
the steely backdrop of sea and sky. We are now anchored behind Rugged
Point which has an admirable lee from wind and swell, with only the
gentlest rocking to send us to sleep. A warming dinner was served as we
hid below from the damp and rain.Even though some felt sick this
morning, people adjusted well through the day and all are very fine
now. Tomorrow we will head ashore to rugged beach. 

After a stormy evening hundled below, the day dawned amongst fitful
rain showers. The bundled trainees pulled ashore after breakfast, to
cross the small isthmus in search of the spectacular and wild beach on
the outer shore. Arriving just prior to low water the beach appeared
like polished black glass. The beach imparts a sense of wildness, as if
long beach returned to it´s pre-park and tourist days. After admiring
the rugged scene a wild game of soccer whirled amongst sheeting rain
squalls. There was even enough enthusiasm left over to urge some to play
in the deminutive surf.  We decided to push south again this afternoon
towards historic Nootka Island. The way south was entwined with rain
showers and once, a glimpse of blue sky. The seas were a bit lumpier
today after being awoken by last night´s storm, but most were fine and
those that felt queasy were able to sleep it off. A couple of trainees
were able to reel in some salmon this afternoon, providing some
excitement, a tasty afternoon snack and opportunity to try different
recipes. Several humpbacks again kept us company, swimming alongside for
half an hour or so. Upon reaching Nootka Island we took the scenic route
into the heart of the island, observing the many beaches, sea caves and
even a mighty shipwreck. There were dozens of sea otters in the
protected waters, swimming solo and in large rafts. The gazed
nonchalantly as the Swift glided past in the still waters, before
returning to dinner as they float on their backs. Community is
developing well both in watches and as a whole company. Last night we
had a talk with all hands and it was great to hear people share and
learn from one another.

Last night was very pleasantly spent in the calm solitude and solace
of the inner basin of Nootka Island. A welcome break from the roaming
pacific swells. Today was another day of making good our southing
against the weather. This morning held a pleasant surprise...sunshine.
As we departed Nootka Island early this morning, the sun shone radiantly
through the low hanging veil of cloud clinging to the surrounding hills
and valleys.Despite some larger rollers everyone felt much better and
the day was spent in the normal routine of watch and lessons. The
weather is showing signs of breaking as we only had a couple of showers
and fog banks, while the sun continues to build strength behind the
canopy of cloud. One welcome diversion today was another salmon reigned
in by the trainees. The highlight though was the serving of the fish, as
watch leader Andrew Dean and Skipper strove to perfect their sweet and
savory recipes. Many otters, whales, eagles, sea lions, leaping fish and
the majestic seagull were spotted en route to Hesquiat Harbour in
Clayquot Sound. The heavy cloud lifted in the afternoon and we were able
to see some of the dramatic peaks and valleys of the coastline. The
trainees onboard continue to knit together, sharing conversations,
games, studies and other pursuits and pleasures. Anchored in the broad,
calm waters of the harbour with the straining sunlight dipping low
everyone was in good spirits and relaxed. There was even a spirited game
of aftcabin dodgeball with mixed crew and trainee squads. The local
scenery is grand and eyes are strained
 shoreward to catch a glimpse of some wildlife; perhaps a bear, cougar
or some of the famous wily and wild cattle that roam the deep woods and
shores.

"This is the best day ever!" This was the joyous refrain heard from
the vast majority of trainees throughout the day yesterday. The start
was spectacular, a wee sleep in had trainees rubbing the sleep from
their eyes as they mustered for breakfast under clear and sunny skies,  
the first time since departing Port Hardy. While awaiting a chance to
gather pancakes from below, a humpback whale was spotted circling the
bay having his breakfast as well. After breakfast we put ashore at Boat
Basin for a tour of Cougar Annie´s garden, perhaps the last remaining
homestead on the coast. During the row the humpback treated us to an  
amazing sight.  He would chase the mackerel to the surface before
lunging out of the water with his gaping maw to capture the fish, making
us feel like so many insignificant Jonahs. Once ashore Peter the kindly
restorer and caretaker of the garden, gave us a great tour through the
homestead, the dense forest of hoary cedars and some of the new
buildings being constructed for field study groups.  We stopped at Rae
Lake for a great swim where many trainees swam out to the secret rock in
the middle of the lake. A place that held great tradition for the
original inhabitants of the area. A small black bear was also spotted
snuffling the seaweed in search of some lunchtime sandfleas. We bid a
fond farewell to Peter and the garden and headed back for the ship for
lunch. During lunch the whale continued his active scavenging passing
very close to the Swift several times.  After an afternoon study session
we weighed anchor to make a passage for Hot Springs Cove.  At last the
northwest wind had arrived. Canvas was shaken out aloft and a low by the
trainees as we sailed out of Hesquiat Harbour. The Grace was inbound for
our vacated anchorage and we had a lovely sail past as we crossed the
harbour bar. It was a great feeling to have the ship surging beneath us
in her proper way. Quick passage was made with the wind and we tucked up
into Hot Springs Cove. After dinner we headed for the hot springs. It is
a lovely boardwalk cut through the forest eventually arriving at the
springs themselves perched on the edge of the pacific ocean. The springs
have been left completely natural as they begin with a waterfall hotter
than the shower at home at with a little added power. The steaming
waters then proceed pool by pool till they eventually mingle with the
chill ocean. Trainees made their way between the rock walls till they
found the pool and temperature of their choice and settled in to allow
the soothing waters to ease all chills, aches and cares. The sun set
dramatically with all the fiery oranges, reds and purples it could
muster, silhouetting the rocky points and desperate trees that cling to
this coast. After a stroll back along the forest path, the dories
slipped through the calm waters as the oar blades splashed
phosphorescent swirls of electric green and glowing fish were seen to
scatter at our approach.  What day would then be complete without being
sated by cookies and hot chocolate before collapsing into the awaiting
bunks.  Life moves happily a long, various crafts are always underway,
whether secret friend presents, marline bracelets , drawing, journaling,
water colours with the mate. Everyone is very comfortable with each
other and themselves taking the time to share and grow.
    We are underway now making our way south towards Barkley Sound. The
fog has lifted and we are awaiting the arrival of the northwest wind and
sun to speed us onward. We hope to make landfall by supper time. Dinner
is scheduled to be the famed roast beef spectacular with all the usual
fixin´s. After dinner we will have our "Sunday" service.

Yesterday we caught the light northwesterly as we approached Barkley
Sound. Sails were run up enthusiastically amid the many intermediates
writing their exams on chartwork, navigation safety, tides and other
assorted nautical academia. The Swift was handled delicately through the
rocks and rain squalls dotting her path into the sheltered inner waters
of the islands. Nearing the Broken Islands we selected a new and unnamed
anchorage. We were able to sail right into the heart of the scattered
islands and rocks, with glimpses out to the open sea visible through the
craggy and wind swept islets dotting our refuge. The trainees worked
excellently together to bring the ship to anchor under sail, as our
raucous sea lion neighbours  grunted and bellowed their admiration and
the sun broke through.  The promised roast did not disappoint and all
tucked in with hearty appetites. The evening concluded with our service
as the wind died to a whisper and the sun gently settled over the
distant hills   and sheltering rocks. The sealions enthusiastically
tried to join the choir during singing and would interrupt with the most
absurd interjections. We had beautiful stars for the first time and
people spent their evening quietly appreciating the grandeur of the
delicate stars and streaking meteors.
    Today we will set out to explore the islands surrounding us; sea
caves, nestled beaches, wildlife and other treasures.  This evening will
be marked with a talent show, hearty singing, the revelation of secret
friends and many other last night festivities. It feels as if the trip
has flown bye, but we are all eager to make the most of our remaining 24
hours, cementing friendships, lessons and memories.