Pacific Grace 2009 - Trip 4

After boarding all our trainees and completing introductions we slipped our lines at 1400hrs yesterday. Wind was calm so we continued traveling into the night. Our hope was to try and get to triangle island which lies 24 miles to the north west of Cape Scott, the north western tip of Vancouver Island. visiting Triangle is like visiting ´never never land´. Rock formations are right out of the movie Jurassic Park. Large sealion colonies flourish on the outer islands swept regularly by large swells rolling in from the Pacific. Tufted puffins, guillemots, cormorants, rhinoceros auklets and other birdlife not regularly seen abound everywhere. All life thrives out on and around Triangle. It always seems like you are visiting a place far from anything familiar when you arrive there. We have always arrived at night so as soon as the anchor is down and the engines are turned off the magic begins. Sounds of all the different sea birds nesting on the island can at times be almost deafening. Sea lions can be heard barking, burping and growling at each other all night long. This chorus of sound is accompanied constantly by the large swells breaking on the nearby outer shore. Dories were over the side by 0900hrs and all were very excited for the thrilling tour ahead. All watches moved slowly over the large kelp beds that lay between the Grace and the nearest sealion colony. As the boats approached more of the sealions entered the water and came nearer to have a look. These are huge animals and at one point close to fifty were straining their necks to see who was over for a visit. A thrilling event for both us and the sealions. Dories were also taken through clefts in the rocks on a circuitous route touring the outer islands, always under the watchful eyes of nearby sealion patrols. With dories on board by 1200hrs we were underway again in calm weather towards Winter Harbour. Whale sightings, shark sightings and a successful fishing stop ended our passage for the day. Two large salmon were caught which we plan to put in the ships smoker for a treat tomorrow. All are well and trilled with all that has gone on in the first 30hrs of this trip.

After breakfast today, we lay at anchor in Winter Harbour for most of the morning doing lessons: junior terminology in the foc´s´le and intermediate chartwork in the hold, charts spread over the table, galley counters, and all available spots on the sole. We pulled the hook just after eating lunch together on deck, and ran south out of Quatsino Sound looking for fish. The skipper seems to have a sixth sense for finding them, and in less than forty minutes of trolling in the gentle swell, we had reeled in four fine salmon, all landed by trainees who had never before caught a fish. Two or three humpback whales passed to the east, blowing on the surface and rolling their black bulks back under the waves. We had intended to anchor in Klaskino Inlet, but with rain there and the sky clearing above Solander Island, we decided to continue running south around Brooks Peninsula and into Checleset Bay. It was overcast today, with occasional moments of light drizzle--almost a falling fog--and torn bands of low-lying cloud obscuring the massif of the west end of the peninsula. Regardless of how many times we have run down the outside of Vancouver Island, the magnificence of the coast never fails to impress us. There is a wildness here, something untamable and at times almost brooding. Even in relatively light weather, you can feel the latent power of the sea. South of Brooks we sighted a small pod unidentified dolphins, and later, a solitary sea otter floating on its back.  We barbecued the fresh salmon up on deck as we ran towards our anchorage, eating in three sittings rather than the usual two as the fillets were sent hot and hot below.  A simple but extraordinary meal. There is a tremendous feeling on board this trip. The crew are very tight and the trainees are smiling. We are anchored now in a small un-named bay west of Acous Peninsula, and I can smell the alder smoke from the smoker up on deck as yesterday´s salmon continue to season for tomorrow. All the best from the Pacific Grace, Stephen Duff
 

Well, it feels good to be sitting in my familiar spot of a year ago, starboard side of the aftercabin table, behind the computer, pulling thoughts together on our day together.   Our days feel long and full; after only four days there is already a strong sense of community. We have experienced twice over what many people will never see in their life;  first there was Triangle Island and its colonies of birds and sea lions, and today, a spectacular hike along the southern beach of Brooke´s Peninsula.  We raised anchor shortly after second sitting breakfast and motored our way along Brooke´s Peninsula, back towards its western extremity.  Skipper jogged with the engine while Tristan and Sam shuttled trainees and crew to the beach to walk the full extent of the south beach. It was a wet and tricky landing, as waves, swell, and a rocky shore made exiting from the zodiac somewhat difficult.  Everyone took it well and although some were damper than others, we started out in good spirits.  When you are spending your days with 40 others on a ship on the wet west coast of Vancouver Island it helps to have a patient and accomodating attitude and I felt that the group had this.  We spent the next 4 hours walking along log strewn beaches, clambering over and around stunning rocky points of land, collecting amazing treasures washed ashore by vessels as far away as Japan, climbing along solid ledges of beautifully coloured and textured stone, and wading through sea water in narrow chasms of rock.   Alongside us were the magnificent rain forests the coast is known for. The vegetation was incredibly lush and green, trees sprouted from the tops of magnificently shaped pinnacles of rock that jutted out from the shore and often created passages into the forest. We followed some of these passages of rock and found ourselves in giant caves; it truly was spectacular. Crew and trainees fell into groups chatting and laughing, getting to know each other better, all the while watching their footing, as the terrain changed often.  Mist and rain accompanied us for most of the hike but we soon became oblivious to it.   One trainee, Jack, commented that he´d  "never worn his raingear as much as in the past few days . . . especially in August."   Tristan, our bosun, picked us up at the end of the beach, the eastern end of the Peninsula, and brought us back ´home´ safely to a nice warm ship with lunch waiting, thanks to Krystle and Keisa, our two cooks.  Trainees were tired, and happy to return to the "Pacific Grace," and, I think, deservedly proud of what they´d accomplished. We continued on, motoring, in the pouring rain and blowing wind to Kyoquot, a small village in a very beautiful and protected harbour, called Walter´s Cove.  Watches stood their watch together huddled under a tarp set up around the wheel, keeping each other entertained.  I was impressed with their attitudes in the somewhat trying westcoast weather we´re experiencing.  We arrived at the government dock about 2000hrs and are now nicely tied up.  This means that tonight everyone will get to sleep through the entire night, as there is no anchor watch.  We´re quite excited.  After all mooring lines were secured and the fender board was put into place, we pulled out the sun/rain tarps used so often during offshore, and put the foreward tarp up over the hold hatches.  It allows people to come on deck for air without getting soaked.  Over the aftercabin we left the small tarp up which prevents water from entering the hatch.  Trainees were very willing to help get the tarps up; it´s wonderful.  Last night Skipper and Jacob put 2 salmon in brine and then into the smoker for the night and some of today.  Tonight after dishes everyone who wanted was able to have a taste; it is absolutely the most delicious snack and we are planning on making more.  Tristan and Sam organized a massive ´tuck and tidy´ which pits the foc´sle (the guys) against the hold (the girls).  Both parties go ´all out´ to impress their judges, fluffing pillows, presenting nice poems and snacks for them, and creating the nicest ´space´ they can in order to win points.  We spent an hour singing heartily with Sarah and Sam playing guitar, and then launched into a discussion entitled "What matters?"  Keisa made delicious lemon squares for Mug-Up which we ate with some vanilla steamed milk.  By midnight everyone was in their bunks.  Tomorrow morning we are looking forward to a visit to Kyoquot´s General Store and a stroll around the tiny village.  Pray for sunny, dry weather, we have a lot of damp clothes hanging around!  Until tomorrow, good night, Bonice.

We spent a very comfortable night tied to the dock in Kyuqout while the wind blew over 50 kts just outside the harbour. This is one of the most protected spots on this stretch of coast so the water was almost glassy calm most of the night. With lessons filling the morning hours yesterday and a quick visit to the town store we were off to Rugged Point which lies about an hour SE of Kyuqout. Rugged is one of the most spectacular beaches that we visit on the west coast of Vancouver Island. It is very similar to Long Beach near Tofino but we usually get the whole beach to ourselves. After a short hike through a beautiful west coast forest  everyone enjoyed a great game of sticks and then some body surfing in the chilly waters breaking onto the beach. Long walks, fort and castle building and Frisbee took up the remainder of our day at Rugged. Back on the boat  chilly and baked potatoes were on the menu for supper. Last night instead of our usual mug-up routine everyone gathered into the hold for a very relaxed evening that we labeled as "Cafe Night". This trip has so many musically talented individuals that it seemed only fitting to enjoy the varied gifts. There was an "open mike" available and we enjoyed music sung by numerous trainees and crew members. There was Jazz singing complete with "scat". Some sang songs that they had written themselves as well as popular songs everyone recognized. Sarah and Melanie made special coffee´s or spiced teas for everyone as well as fresh Biscotti. Our cafe night went on to 2300hrs and was spectacular, your children are very talented and it was wonderful to watch them share with each other. We were underway today at 0700hrs and are south bound again heading to the well loved Hotsprings Cove. Here we can enjoy a hot bath in pools that vary in temperature from 104F to sea water near 40F. It is lovely to have the sun back even if it is only for part of the day. All are well and continually growing closer as a group.

yesterday was a day to make tracks south. we ran south for about 10hrs which brought us to hot springs cove just in time for and evening bath. most of the day was spent catching up on lessons and having oral exams signed off. our arrival at the springs was timed so that the last of the tourist boats was just heading out of the harbor, thus allowing us to tie to the dock. once again we enjoyed a delightful stroll through the forest as we made our way to the springs along the cedar boardwalk. everyone enjoyed a hot bath in pools of various temperatures. walking home was also a treat as night had fallen and the forest seemed a different place. another group decided to go for an early soak this morning at 0700hrs and were back in time for brunch at 0930. today is day seven which we usually reserve as a sleep in day complete with pancake breakfast. at noon we departed with excitement to use the freshening nw wind that had been building all night. we set sail at the harbour mouth and enjoyed a very satisfying beat to our next anchorage. at times there was water pumping in the scuppers as the grace took on the gentle pacific roll while heeling to the twenty knot breeze. six hours after setting sail we anchored under sail in hesquait harbour a little north of hot springs cove. everyone had a job working the boat as we made tack after tack. a very satisfying day. our efforts were rewarded soon after anchoring with a spectacular show given to us by a small humpback whale in the area. this whale was feeding on small fish in the bay and often would lunge out of the water 20 feet of the boat as we all stood watching with our mouths open. even as i write now (2330hrs) i can hear the whale feeding near the boat. it will be a night watch to remember. as it was boat sunday today (day 7) after supper we had a sunday service on the after deck with scenic views in every direction and yes our friend the humpback making a regular appearance. quite a setting.

Our day began with more whale shows from the resident Humpback and a tour of Cougar Annie´s Garden. Cougar Annie was an adventurous woman who came to homestead in the area around 1910. She carved out an existence in one of the most inhospitable areas of the world. Annie was known for her 5 acre garden where she grew everything from roses, rhododendrons and heather to lilies of all types. She was also quite a shot and with twenty dollars/head as a bounty on Cougars she is reported to have killed over 70 during her time here.

In 1983 she left her garden at the age of 95. Cougar Annie moved to the 117 acre property with three children and had 8 more during her stay. She also went through 4 husband´s. Peter Buckland a friend of Annie´s now maintains the garden and has created a non-profit organization around it in hopes to have university students come out and use the field study center he has constructed there. Peter took everyone on a tour of the
property that included the garden, beautiful red cedar structures, elevated boardwalks and a lecture hall on the lake. All very tastefully constructed and all built with the hope to inspire learning. After Cougar Annie´s we made our way south to Vargas Island and anchored near supper and were treated to another whale show by a couple more Humpback´s in the area. A great mug up rounded out our day.

It has been another fantastic day on Trip 4 aboard the Pacific Grace.  We awoke to sun and a promise of warmth, but possibly no sailing, as the sea was calm.  By 0900 hrs Stephen Duff, one of our watch leaders, had organized a party to start a cooking fire on the beach for the paella.  Krystle and Kiesa were busy in the galley preparing the chicken and the stock, while trainees on deck were chopping dozens of onions.  While food preparation was underway, Intermediates wrote their exam; charts were spread out over the deck and deckhouses and we had a record 14 trainees writing (for this year).

By 1200 hrs everyone was ashore. Jono and Ben created a table and benches to seat 40, out of the beach Driftwood.  Two cooking fires were heating up nicely in the sand.  Around the fire pits another log border kept trainees away from the heat and the coals. Stephen began the cooking of the paella in the 1m diameter pan while trainees and crew either helped, watched, built mermaid sandcastles, collected shells, swam, or just chatted with each other.  It was a wonderful event; the feeling was that of a large family gathering, enjoying each other´s company and eating good food.  It was interesting to watch the process of the cooking of the paella; it turned out excellent, with a caramel-like bottom crust and perfectly cooked grains of rice; delicious.  Stephen said it was the best one so far.  He has made them other years during the 10-day trips.  The 39 of us ate 3.75 kilos of arborio rice laced with safron, halibut, cod, chicken, green  beans, lima beans, homemade chicken stock, paprika, and yellow and red peppers.  The composition with the various colours was beautiful and the cameras were clicking.

We weighed anchor at 1430 hrs, searching for wind and looking forward to a downwind sail.  Unfortunately  this wasn´t in the cards, instead we enjoyed a relaxing run towards Ucluelet under a sunny sky.  Trainees worked to complete their oral exams for their Junior and Intermediate logbooks, made turks head bracelets and anklets, practiced their splicing and whipping, read, created straw animals with Dan, stood watch, and generally just enjoyed each others company.  We all know that our time together is limited and we are making the best of it.  Tonight we held our Talent Show and it was wonderful to watch, laugh, and listen to so many good acts.  Secret friends were unveiled with many "thank you, you were an awesome secret friend" offered.  We enjoyed Kiesa´s shortbread and spent some time reflecting on the past days together and what we have learned. 

Bedtime was late, as it always is on the final night.  Tomorrow we will spend a final morning together, making
plans I´m sure to somehow connect again.

Until next time, good night, Bonice.