2010 Trip 5 - Pacific Grace

Another sunny day on the west coast. All trainees were on board by 1400hrs and after our safety intro lines were slipped and we were off. Our goal was to make as much progress north before the forecasted NW wind came up to its full force of 30 kts. Starting initially in the fog progress was good until the last hour before Tofino which was where we headed in for the protection of the inter-island route. We are now anchored off of White Sand Beach on the south side of Flores Island. Our anchorage is calm with a spectacular view of the moon rising over the surrounding islands to the south. All are well and are heading to bed after a great first mug up.

Our morning began with a clear sunrise over the outer islands and offshore view that was before us. Underway by 0830hrs we were off to a favorite haunt known as Baseball Bay, which is located on the west side of Flores Island. In Baseball Bay there is a small stream that leads circuitously through the forest past a few small water falls to a lovely warm lake. Our walk up stream was a bit slippery but all enjoyed the fresh water in the lake and deep pools along the way. We enjoyed our fist salmon today caught after lunch and enjoyed just before mug up. Returning from the lake we were lured out to sea again by a NW wind that looked like it could provide a great sail. For the rest of the afternoon we beat our way to Hesquiat Harbour which lies about ten mile NW of Baseball Bay. All along the way Humpback whales came to visit many of them breaching with three quarters of their bodies leaving the water, truly awe-inspiring. Our breeze lasted long enough for us to anchor under sail in Hesquiat Hr. by 2000hrs. just in time for mug up. Lessons are well underway in all areas and our group is coming together well. Tomorrow, weather permitting we will try to head further north. All are well.

Traveling was the goal today as the wind was light and the sea down. Our goal was the Brooks Peninsula where we know the beaches are second to none. We were underway by 0600hrs and traveled most of the north. Just before anchoring for the day a stop was made at our favorite fishing hole and we were not disappointed. Within 20 minutes there was over one hundred pounds of fish on board, mostly cod with a nice sized Salmon as an extra treat. Immediately the “dressing “ crew began their work. Those who had never filleted a fish before had a chance to learn the art. We hope to eat the cod tomorrow and as I write this note the Salmon is “brining” in the fridge so it will be ready for the smoker by morning, oh how everyone loves smoked Salmon. Today´s travel again brought numerous Humpback whales into view which each time forces everyone to stop what they are doing to run and enjoy the show. All are well in the hold singing their hearts out at mug-up.

Another full day today even though we did not move from our anchorage. Lessons were underway for all three levels,  Junior, Intermediate and Senior for most of the morning. After lunch everyone went ashore for our traditional Paella feast. We have a 36 inch diameter Paella pan which we take ashore and spend the afternoon creating a memorable dinner all in the context of community sharing and preparing a meal together. It takes about four hours to complete the task. There are fire crews, wood collecting crews, food chopping crews and of course cooking crews. Our Paella had Arborio rice, onions, garlic, chicken, chorizo sausage, fresh snapper from our fishing trip, lima beans, green beans, red and yellow bell peppers and a touch of saffron for Spanish tradition. These items were all simmered in a chicken and wine stock over an open fire on a  fine white sand beach that was tailor made for the occasion. Parallel to this production the sauna team was in charge of building a tarp sauna on the beach large enough to fit 30 to 40 people in. Hot rocks were carried in buckets inside the tent and fresh water sprinkled on these to create a sauna hot enough for anyone present. Once thoroughly heated everyone runs out of the tent and into the cool, (no cold) ocean to rinse off and cool down. We arrived on the beach at 1400 and did not make it back to the boat until 2030. On our way back to the Grace in the dories we were treated by the sight of two bears wandering the beach on the opposite side of the harbour. At thrill for everyone to view these beautiful creatures from the safe confines of the dories on the water. Tomorrow we hope to sail to Hot Springs cove to enjoy a hot bath in the 108 degree waters. All are well.

Lessons were the main activities this morning while at anchor.  After an early lunch we all went for a wander around Cougar Annie´s Garden. Cougar Annie was a legendary figure who arrived on the west coast here in Hesquiat Hr. in 1915 to carve an existence out of the rugged rain forest. She cleared an area of about 5 acres and began gardening in a way that no one had before had in this part of the coast. She bore 11 children, 9 of them at her home in the garden and went through 4 different husbands during her time here. Annie always kept goats and chickens which were usually too tempting for the local wild life to pass up, this being the key to her name. Any unsuspecting cougar or bear that came near her farm animals was promptly shot by Annie herself, skinned and sold for bounty. She is known to have shot upwards of 70 cougars. Peter, a friend to the SALTS boats knew Annie well and is now living at the garden. Peter every year graciously tours our trainees around the garden and then up to the nearby Rae Lake, all the time painting many colourful pictures of what life was like here in the early 1900´s. Annie was moved from the garden to town in the eighties when she herself was in her late eighties but unfortunately died a couple of years later. She was a remarkable woman and all of us enjoyed the tour and stories that Peter shared with us. After a short sail to Hot Springs Cove we all headed up to the springs which lie in a position overlooking the great Pacific Ocean. You can lie in a hot water pools and watch the swells roll in from Japan. This is always a favorite stop during our west coast trips. All are well.

Today was a travel day. We have received weather reports predicting contrary weather (SE) so our goal was to get inside the Strait of Juan de Fuca where weather and sea conditions are less of a concern if things turn against us. Most of today was spent in the dense fog, motoring south as the wind was calm between systems. We did have many whale sightings once again which we all enjoyed. Anchoring at 2200hrs near the south end of the West Coast Trail we are looking forward to the new view tomorrow morning. After a sleep in followed by a pancake breakfast final testing will commence and we will make some more progress south towards home. All are well.

Today we had a late start as breakfast was a one sitting
breakfast after a great sleep in morning. Everyone slept soundly until 0930hrs
then rose to enjoy pancakes, bacon, fruit and all the toppings. Intermediates
wrote their test this morning after which we weighed anchor and got underway in
time to make use of a lovely 20kt westerly that allowed us to sail wing on wing
averaging 7-9 kts. Our course was east in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. With the
day being as clear as it was our view of the Olympic Peninsula on the right and
Vancouver Island to the left was second to none. This wind carried us to our
anchorage within Becher Bay. Our day would not be complete without the standard
whale show so about halfway down the strait a pod of Orca´s swam over to the
Grace to welcome us in from the west coast. Once anchored we were treated to a
delicious roast beef dinner complete with yorkshire pudding. Everyone is below
now singing very boisterously after a great day of
sailing.