2010 Trip 4 - Pacific Swift

All hands boarded the Pacific Swift yesterday in high spirits, ready
for adventure. Once all the safety orientations were complete we slipped
lines and bid farewell to Port Hardy. There was a fresh breeze blowing
in the bay and we wasted no time in tucking a reef and then a double
reef into the mainsail. We spent yesterday afternoon beating up into a
strong wind  getting everyone involved in sail handling early on. While
we were surging along we had the treat of a visit from several playful
porpoises that dove and darted about the bows of the heeling ship. We
also spotted a lone humpback making his way southbound. We tucked in to
Port Alexander last night to allow some weather to move past and get a
good night´s rest before rounding Cape Scott the following day. It was
nice to enjoy the evening programme of singing and games at a calm
anchorage. Starboard watch awoke early this morning at 0600 to take
advantage of the tide on our last northbound leg. It was a calm misty
morning that eventually socked in with thick fog near breakfast time.
Amidst the swirls of fog, a pod of orcas appeared and accompanied us
northward.  It was breathtaking to stop the ship and allow the 10 whales
to ghost past, with just the sound of their breathing to break the
silence of the fog.  Rounding the top of Vancouver Island we remained in
the fog as the seas built to welcome us into the open Pacific. It was a
bit rolly but everyone remained in good spirits despite the
protestations of their tummies. Once clear of Cape Scott (invisible in
the fog a mile off) we found the breeze favourable and wasted no time in
shaking out the courses, mainsail and square topsail. It was a welcome
distraction and the trainees turned to with good will, with even a
couple brave souls setting out to loose the topsail. It wasn´t long till
we were making a heartening 9 knots down the west side of the Island. It
was a glorious moment when we burst from the fog bank, the last tendrils
of fog clinging to the topmast shrouds, to emerge into the sunshine and
blue Pacific accompanied by the wooded shores of the Island on our port
side. The seas calmed, the ship steaded, the sun shone and we sped south
gradually restoring everyone to full vim and vigour. In the late
afternoon the breeze eased off just enough to allow us to pull in a fine
salmon, the first caught by second mate Niki. The fish was from hook to
fork in 45 minutes and disappeared even more quickly into the eager
mouths of the trainees. We made calm anchorage in North Harbour nestled
in Quatsino Sound shortly after dinner.  Trainees are happily fishing,
playing guitar and getting to know one another as we sit in the last of
the day´s sun.

Dawn broke with not a wisp of fog this morning. It was a welcome
sight to see the sun beating down and providing warmth early in the day.
We weighed anchor from North Harbour and slipped out of Quatsino Sound
to see the Pacific sparkling before us. The wind we picked up offshore
was ideal. Blowing fresh off the land it provided a perfect beam reach
scented with evergreens from the shore.  In a low swell we set full
sail, the Swift gathering speed as topsails were sheeted home. The only
regret was that 10 knots is too fast for trolling. However all agreed
that the speed and thrill of sailing under full press in a warm breeze,
the deep teal sea roiling past, trumped all other concerns. Trainees
worked very well, scampering aloft and sweating lines on deck.  Our sail
took us to Klaskino Inlet where a cozy anchorage shelters us from the
seas and winds of the coast. It is very rugged and secluded with
glimpses out to the open ocean. Several sea otters glanced curiously at
us as we sailed in before returning to their meals as they floated
gracefully in the swell.  We put ashore to explore the brisk fresh water
pools and waterfalls. It was beautiful and everyone dove into the pools
for a scrub and refreshment. Some intrepid souls followed Matt the mate
up the pools to see the large waterfall nestled amongst the rain forest.
We are now teaching at anchor in the warm sun awaiting dinner and
another evening of fun . It was a much more settled day and everyone is
getting used to the routine of shipboard life and settling into easy
conversation and relationship.

Another beautiful day broke crisp and bright aboard the Swift.
Threading through the rocks and otters we once again entered the
Pacific, looking much like it´s name implies. It was glassy and calm
with only the gentlest swell. All hands seem well adjust to our times at
sea now after a couple gentle days. We rounded the Brooks Peninsula
passing close bye the weather-beaten Solander Island. We stopped to fish
and landed several cod and snapper in 15 minutes enough we deemed to
feed the ship. It was very exciting as fish after fish was pulled aboard
amid an excited and building crowd of onlookers. Our largest catch
topped in at 38 lbs. It has been an excellent team effort with everyone
helping catch, clean and cook the fish. We are anchored now off the
southern shore of Brooks Peninsula. While a small minke whale hunted his
dinner the dories put off to land on one of the stunning sand beaches of
the shoreline. It felt like arriving in Mexico. The sun beat down as the
dories surfed onto the pristine beach and as we  climbed a dune a clear,
turquoise lagoon beckoned with it´s warm fresh waters. We had a great
time enjoy the beach playing games, building rafts and hunting for
treasures from distant lands. We have returned to our floating home now
to enjoy fresh fish and chips. It has been a great day, enjoying the
bounty and best of the coast.

Last night´s anchorage was beautiful. We lay to our rode with the
open Pacific around us, the scent of trees drifting off the peninsula,
and the myriad of stars mirrored in the surprisingly still sea.  Morning
clean-up was accompanied by two feeding humpbacks as the sun rose over
the yard arm. We made southing towards Kyuquot Sound in fine weather
until a chill fog bank draped over us. We remained bound in misty air
till we dropped anchor at Rugged Point.  The fog was roiling over the
tree tops and then dropping and swirling through the bay, giving way
occasionally to see glimpses of the nearby beach. We hiked through the
rainforest to the expansive beach on the outer coast. The beach is long,
flat and desolate.  The fog was thick about us on the beach till it blew
away during a rousing games of sticks, revealing it´s full length and
beauty.  We shifted anchorage up the sound to more sheltered waters for
the night. We have found rest in Amai Inlet. It is quite pretty,
surrounded by steep wooded hills and the distant peaks of the sound
watching patiently. Everyone is in high spirits as we live and work
together. Lessons, dishes, games and all manner of activities are done
with good will and a smile.

We departed Amai Inlet early yesterday morning, the deep valley
which dominated the anchorage was bathed in amber and violet light,
accentuating it´s wooded folds. It wasn´t long however till we slipped
into a dense fog bank which accompanied us for the remainder of the day.
We motored far south to Hesquiat Harbour in Clayquot Sound.  The strong
NW winds forecasted never able to brush the fog aside. Despite the
constant charcoal veil around us and large swell that rolled us south,
spirits were very high on board. It was an excellent testament to the
attitude and energy of the group and the spirit that under girds the
whole programme. It was a long day and we finally came to rest around
2030 still shrouded in fog.  Evening programme was full of fun, with
extra skits and effort for tuck and tidy, great games and a raucous
singing time.
     We awoke today to see our first land in 24 hours. Hesquiat Harbour
is a beautiful natural harbour. It is very wild, rimmed with old growth
rain forest and a rocky foreshore often roamed by bears and wolves
looking for breakfast amongst the rocks. At the head of the harbour,
hidden away, is Cougar Annie´s Garden, the site of an old homestead
carved out of the dense forest, that has been slowly restored to it´s
original state. Today we are spending some time working on the academic
side of our sail training programme. We will be testing our junior
sailors on chartwork, navigation safety, sail theory and terminolgy
while the intermediates work on some more advanced chartwork. This
afternoon we will sail our way down to Hot Springs Cove. The cove
delivers on everything the name suggests.  There is a beautiful
boardwalk that winds it´s way through the hoary forest that clings to
the battered shoreline, with glimpses onto the rolling Pacific. The walk
ends at the hot springs themselves which have been left in their natural
state. A hot waterfall feeds small pools nestled between rocky cliffs
opening up to a view of the ocean at the foot of the pools. The pools
decrease in temperature as you move downstream allowing the discerning
bather to choose a tub that best suits their needs. It is a delightful
and soothing treat after a week afloat on the outer coast.

Our hot springs experience last night was delightful and all slept
well in their bunks after a good long soak. We tore ourselves away from
Hot Springs Cove this morning at 0700 and headed out in search of the NW
wind to speed us on our final big leg south.  The skies were clearing to
the north, a good sign that the wind was pushing it´s way down from Cape
Scott. Second sitting of breakfast was delayed as we were distracted by
repeatedly breaching humpbacks close off the port side. The humpbacks
were nearby all day and we figure we must have seen 20 or more
throughout the day in various levels of frolicking and play. An hour or
so out we picked up the slowly building breeze and spread courses and
squaretop under the first blue sky in two days. It was an excellent sail
as we averaged about 8 knots all day. Everyone was in excellent spirits
to be under sail and surfing down the swells towards Barkley Sound.
There was a lot of great music and crafts about the deck as we happily
scudded along. We sailed right up to our anchorage in Island Harbour,
nestled in the heart of the Broken Islands. It was thrilling to fly
through the heart of the island group watching the tenacious trees, hung
with moss, speed past. Tonight we will enjoy a delicious roast beef
dinner with all the requisite trimmings, prepared wonderfully by the
cooks in their rolling galley. This evening is "ship Sunday" and we will
have a simple service surrounded by the cluster of islands that we will
call home for the night.