2011 Trip 5 - Pacific Grace

Our trainees for Trip 5 boarded in Ucluelet.

With all trainees on board we left the dock yesterday at 1535hrs. Our plan was to head north as far as the weather would allow. As it turned out we had only light NW wind for most of the run and the seas were quite reasonable as well. We did do a short fishing stop just before anchoring on the south side of the Brooks Peninsula. With fish in the cooler we are set for our Paella later in the trip. Presently dories are being launched and the plan is to spend the afternoon on the lovely white sand beach known as South Shed 2. This will be an enjoyable reprieve for some who have been battling the motion of the last 24 hrs. We did have some unsettled tummies during our run but all seem to be coming back to life once in sight of the beach. All are well.

After returning from an afternoon on the beach yesterday we all enjoyed a spectacular sunset with clear skies and all colours imaginable as the sun went down over the Brooks Peninsula. Today we started with lessons before weighing anchor and heading south to explore Spring Island, our goal for today. As there was very little wind we decided to travel south for about 12 miles to a very interesting island off of the community of Kyuqout. Trainees were ashore by 1430hrs and spent most of the afternoon walking amongst the large deep tide pools and wild rock formations. Those of us left on the boat did not anchor but hove to to launch dories and then did a few passes of the island being explored. We also took some time to drag a line or two to see how productive this area might be. We were kept busy with numerous fish on the lines and by the time the dories were returning from the beach we had a respectable amount of fresh Salmon on board. Tomorrow we will fill the smoker on deck and enjoy the smoked Salmon sometime in the evening. All day yesterday and today we have again been having delightful whale shows. The Humpbacks are out in force and are not shy by any means. Almost hourly we get tail waves or pectoral slaps and once in a while mouth dropping full breaches. As well we have been treated with numerous Sea Otter sightings. These are always a thrill with the Otters floating on their back munching on some delicious treat. Yesterday the highlight was seeing an Otter on its back chewing on a large octopus which it held draped across its belly. We are presently anchored at Rugged point and hope to make good use of the forecasted NW wind tomorrow. All are well and enjoying each others company. We have a great mix of veteran trainees and new comers as well as a wide variety of ages.

Finally some wind. We weighed anchor today near 0800hrs and headed offshore in hopes of finding the forecasted NW that was supposed to be coming our way. We did enjoy a beautiful morning with the sun rising over Vancouver Island, the Otters visiting and the odd whale´s tail waving. Our treasured wind did not arrive until 1400hrs which is when we set all the fore and aft sails we have, complete with both topsails. It felt great to turn off the engines and glide silently along in the low Pacific swell. We sailed south past Estevan Point and shaped a course towards Hot Springs Cove. Everyone was excited to stop for a hot bath so as soon as dinner dishes were done of we went. Our walk along the boardwalk this evening was absolutely stunning. Every so often you would catch a glimpse of the sun setting as you looked west through the old growth forest, itself all set aglow with the evening light. Its almost 2130hrs and everyone is still enjoying the springs. Tomorrow is a sleep in day so breakfast will be a little later after which we will go sailing and enjoy the smoked salmon which is wafting down through the hatch as I write. We have a great group on board, all keen to be a part of everything that comes their way. They are also a very supportive group, encouraging each other through the many tasks that make up our day. They are a pleasure to be out here with.

Sleep in went well and breakfast was homemade egg Mcmuffins. Our harbour was completely fogged in this morning with visibility no more than 100 feet. Most of our day was spent in the fog as we made our way over to Hesquiat Harbour. As we approached Rae Basin the fog cleared near the shore and we were treated to a delightful view of the white sand beach we were heading off to. We met the Swift here an shared a delicious dinner of Paella and a great time together on the beach. For mug up everyone was below in the Grace. That is close to 80 people down below singing at the top of their voices, quite something. Oh and yes the smoked salmon was delicious, it lasted a total 6 minutes. All are well.

Our wind finally arrived today, light at first but filling in later. We left Hesquait in a dense fog and headed south in search of wind. About 1400hrs after a lesson review everyone notice the breeze building from the north west. Immediately we set sail and began a very pleasurable sail down towards Barkley Sound. Through the afternoon our wind continued to build and by 1830hrs as we turned into the Broken Group the Grace was moving smartly along. Throughout the afternoon trainees were all hanging around the aft cabin on deck taking turns on the guitar and singing to and with each other. This coupled with the gentle sea and setting sun made for a magical evening. Again our friends the whales came alongside at opportune time to raise a fluke and say hello. We are now anchored just inside the sound on the northern edge. Mug up has just ended and all look and feel satisfied after a great day of sailing. 

After our Juniors finished their exam this morning we were off to explore a rumored little bit of paradise at the head of Barkley Sound in an area known as Pipestem Inlet. Anchoring at 1300hrs the dories headed up the estuary that eligibly led to paradise. We were rewarded with a delightful row up the quiet estuary to a series of waterfalls and deep pools. There were multiple swimming holes and multiple little waterfalls cascading down rocky cliffs. We had the area to ourselves and with the sun making an appearance later in the afternoon this did seem like a tropical paradise, with the exception of the cold water of course. With everyone fresh water cleaned dories were back in time for our boat Sunday dinner of roast beef, Yorkshire puddings, mashed potatoes, gravy and salad. Our evening was spent under the stars enjoying a Sunday service together.

An earlier start today at 0700hrs. We had a bit of a run to do to make it into the Straits of Juan de Fuca. It is with reluctant spirits that we enter the strait as this means the motion stops (little or no swell) and in some way it feels that a bit of life is being left out on the exposed coast. One definitely feels the exposure when traveling on the west coast of Vancouver Island and in a way this seems to heighten your senses and give a greater fullness to life. Some of the Pilots or Sailing Directions caution Mariners to ”avoid this coast if possible due to it´s rugged exposed coast, large seas and strong tides”. With this rawness there is a beauty that you don´t normal experience on the inside coast. Even new trainees that have never been to sea comment on it´s beauty and how stunning some of the views are. Anyway we are headed home and tonight will be spent off of Port Renfrew in Port San Juan one of the first real anchorage options once inside the strait. We had a lovely sail today with the light afternoon westerly. It allowed us to set sail near Tsusiat falls on the west coast trail and sail to our anchorage, anchoring under sail just before supper. I did forget to mention yesterday that we treated to a thrilling sight as we ate our dinner on deck at anchor. Just as we were finishing supper a black bear emerged from the forest 200 feet behind us on the beach. Everyone enjoyed watching as the bear sauntered along the beach nibbling at treat it found amongst the rocks. All are well and tomorrow we will continue on a course taking us nearer to Victoria. 

Our wind finally arrived early today rather
than later in the afternoon. Somewhere north of Point No Point a terrific
westerly began to build. Within an hour or so it was up to 15kts and shortly
after we were racing along at over ten knots under main, main topsail, fore,
fore topsail, jib and jumbo. At 1400hrs we took in the topsails and double
reefed the main which gave us more confidence with the building wind. The wind
was up to 30kts in the gusts and we were still at 10+ knots, just the sail we
needed today. Everyone was thrilled with the day. We are now anchored in Pedder
Bay and have just finished barbecuing smokies for dinner. Talent night is
about to begin as is mug up, tonight looks like another long one. We have a
memorable trip with this group which will make goodbyes tomorrow
difficult.