2012 Trip 3 - Pacific Grace

Trip 3 - Looking forward to welcoming trainees aboard between 1100 hours and 1200 hours on Friday, July 27, 2012 at Ship Point in Victoria´s inner harbour!

After a restful sleep we awoke to a clear bright morning promising all the delicious warmth of a summer day in Desolation Sound. The morning held some interesting twists as two strange sounds caught our attention. First, the sad mewlings of lonely seal pup surrounded us as the little guy looked for shelter and a place to rest from the current. He quickly warmed our hearts and was emotionally adopted, earning the moniker of 'Captain Ron'. Soon Ron's cries were drowned by a haggis full of pipers in proper Scotch regalia marching down Savary's beach with a crowd following in their wake. The pipes powerfully roused the island residents and all aboard while the sun climbed the masts. After breakfast the dories were launched and the watches rolled ashore to the awaiting pristine white sands. The large south beach made an excellent pitch for a great game of sticks. The Starboard Raptors prevailed over the Llama Llamas by a two game to nil margin. We headed back to the Grace shortly after noon and after a tearful farewell to Cap'n Ron we proceeded to weigh anchor under sail and  glide north into Desolation Sound. It was a beautiful hot day as we ran wing on wing towards the towering snow-capped peaks and sheer wooded hills of the sound. Everyone is bonding very well and doing a great job handling sail and working the ship as we have enjoyed a wealth of sailing experience so far this trip. At 1800 we pulled into Walsh Cove at the head of Waddington Channel. Towering cliffs blanketed by dense conifers surround us now as we rest at anchor. Through the narrow gap at the end of the channel, vast frosted peaks clutch at the fiery remains of the sunset. After dinner all hands bravely leapt into the tepid waters and swam to the chain of small islets close astern and explored their cliffs and tenacious trees. A good day.

A heavy mantle of cloud burdened the top of the 1500m cliff that looked down on us in Walsh Cove. We spent a tranquil evening and morning listening to the bright billed oystercatchers trill and swoop about the anchorage. As we got under way later in the morning, following some lessons on navigation safety, the sky broke to a brilliant blue and the wind begun its inflow into the sound. Efficient work by the fore and starboard watches had us under full sail and sailing wing on wing again towards Teakerne Arm. We raced down the arm before rounding up and lowering sail in sharp fashion at the base of the waterfall that graces the head of the arm. We anchored with our stern to the falls and awaited the arrival of the Swift. After dinner the Swift tied up and we spent a wonderful evening of playing games and having a raucus mugup. This morning we plan to enjoy the warm lake that feeds the falls, followed by an invigorating shower in the falls themselves. this afternoon we will hasten north to make passage at slack water through our first set of rapids and our transition to the more wild coast beyond Desolation Sound. Everyone is doing very well, working and playing very well as group and team.    

Last evening we put ashore after dinner in Frederick Arm. The arm is rimmed by bare rocky peaks unable to shed their snowy mantles despite the summer warmth. Nestled between the arm and the nearby tidal basin a burbling stream rushes between dense rainforest. There is a small rocky estuary which is a perfect site for a campfire. Excellent teamwork, which is the hallmark of this group, resulted in a beautiful windfall cedar fire and amphitheatre seating beside the stream. The evening was spent roasting bannock, singing and a time of sharing around the fire. This morning marked a day of transitions. Arbutus trees gave way to, hoary cedars hung with old man's beard. Feet found socks and shoes in place of flip flops. Toques and raincoats covered us instead of sunscreen and sun and warmth were replaced by rain and cool. The beauty remained. Starboard watch had us underway by 0710 in time to make slack water at our last rapids. By mid morning we had entered Johnstone Strait and despite the chill in the air the tall peaks of Vancouver Island generated a pervasive sense of beauty and calm. The sea lay as still as a frozen pond while we motored north under the watchful gaze of eagles. We were treated to a spectacular amount of wildlife on todays journey. Several pods of orcas, frolicsome porpoises and several humpbacks, who dove with the frequency of olympic hopefuls, were our companions on the day. The climate and scenery have fully transitioned to the battered and resolute character of the west coast. we are now at Knight Inlet and plan to make anchorage in Port Elizabeth by 2000. We plan to spend the next several days exploring the channels and inlets of this wild part of the coast. Great comaraderie and respect are present amongst all aboard.    

For the past two days we have been exploring the inlets and channels NE of the Broughton Archipeligo. It is very wild and raw and much more desolate than Desolation Sound. We have enjoyed some private anchorages, with only eagles, seals and salmon for company. Yesterday we wound our way through Knight Inlet and Tribune Channel, high ribbons of waterfalls vied for attention with massive mudslides down the steep slopes of the surrounding shores. We anchored yesterday in Wahkana Bay. The bay is a perfect bowl of forested hills interupted only by a narrow river valley, marked by cheerfully bright deciduous trees. It was a perfect spot for Boat Sunday where we enjoyed a delicious roast beef dinner followed by a simple service on the still waters. Eagles soared nearby and placid porpoises cruised idly around the ship. As night fell and the moon tried to push through the cloud cover the porpoises returned and could be seen gliding past the ship leaving ghostly green trails of phosphoresence in their wake. The weather seems to be settling in to a typical patern of the north and west coast, low morning cloud or fog that will eventually burn off by midafternoon. This morning an expotition* was launched to explore the nearby stream and see if it was possible to reach the lake at its source. It was a beautiful walk along the stream bed and although the lake was never found, there were a couple of nice pools to bath in with small waterfalls tumbling in. The sun broke free by the time the anchor was weighed at 1300 and exiting the wooded close confines of the bay we were treated to contrast in scale as magnificent tall peaks, previously hidden in yesterdays cloud, rose up above the snow line on the opposite side of the channel. We made a short stop to enjoy a beautiful waterfall that flowed over a smooth rock face directly into the deep green water of the channel. We are now motoring west towards a possible anchorage in Grappler Sound.

(*Note from the office - a nod to Winnie the Pooh)

PS. Just travelled through a school of about 100 Pacific white sided dolphins