Pacific Odyssey - Leg 2

We are moored to the yacht dock in downtown Papeete; we can´t believe what a perfect spot we´ve been given. The authorities have been very generous to us, they are happy to have us here and 2 journalists from different newspapers were by as soon as we tied up to take photos and ask questions.  Everything we need is within walking distance: restaurants, laundry, markets, pearl shops, food shops, swimming pool, a church etc., as well as beautiful green places to sit and read or write, right near the ocean. The waterfront has been very nicely cleaned up since the last time we were here.  The ´trucks´ of 17 years ago still exist.  These are vans that in the evening open up and become mini-restaurants, serving anything from steak and fries where the meat is being roasted over a fire and they slice off what you want, to shishkebabs, to filled crepes, to desert waffles with chocolate and whipped cream, to a beer or cider, to pizza . . .  They set out tables with plastic, floral-printed tablecloths and chairs to eat around.  People wander amongst the various ´trucks´ deciding what it is they want to eat. It takes place in the same spot but 17 years ago it was just a somewhat junky parking lot. Now the ground has been tiled and there are nice buildings and lighting, as well as washrooms.  The tourist information is very close by in a beautiful, traditionally built thatch-dwelling which neighbours a small open air market selling shell, bone and pearl crafts as well as woven baskets and wooden carvings.  We went to the ´trucks´ after supper for ice cream with the 4 youngest kids and met several trainees trying out some of the wares.  We sailed through the night until 0330 when the engine was turned on and we continued motor sailing.  The sky was  very dark and grey with heavy clouds; it rained for most of the early morning, shining brass had to be postponed until later in the morning.  It was very exciting coming in to Tahiti.  We were all up on deck, talkative, full of plans and exclamations at what we saw.  The island is very mountainous, like the Marquesas, and each big mountain is covered in smaller peaks like a multi-gabled pointed roof covered in various soft green vegetation, incredibly spectacular.  The city of Papeete rests at the bottom of the mountain, hugging the coastline.  We met our shipping agent, Moana, a very friendly, gentle man who has been very helpful.  He brought the mail to the boat, which is always an important and highly anticipated event.  There really isn´t anything like receiving a  letter on paper, sent through the mail and handwritten.  I´ve heard many trainees commenting on how good it feels and that they too want to remember this feeling and repeat it in their lives.  I received a beautiful letter from Deb with some very inspiring poems written by Emily Dickinson, thank you. Thanks go to everyone for the encouraging words regarding the log. Trainees have sent on your messages of appreciation for relaying what transpires on the ship and I thank you for that; I enjoy doing it. Most of us wandered around the town for the afternoon, just looking and looking and looking; there´s so much to look at.  We went to the open market where we saw vegetables, 150cm long dorados and tuna, huge containers of husked coconuts, various bags of the weirdest looking tidbits of food, aisles
and aisles of multi-coloured pareos (sarongs, lava lavas), and at least 100 tables of hand-crafted jewelry made from materials found close to home.  I marvelled at the amount of ´stuff´ that the woman of all the different islands make by hand, piece by piece, to make an income for their families.  I´m impressed at how they produce something marketable out of material found in their environment, materials that are a daily part of their life: so many different kinds and sizes of shells, wood, pearls, mother-of-pearl shells, bone, leather, beads formed from various seeds and dried berries. I compare it with our society and the things we produce.  There are so many women all over French Polynesia sitting at home, raising children, spending their days threading seeds on lines, putting holes in seeds and pearls so they can be threaded, carving, threading pearls, stringing necklaces, sanding coconut shells, plaiting dried palm fronds into hats and handbags, etc.  There is something admirable in all of it; a simplicity we can learn from.  The kids, Tony and I saw a man chopping coconuts in half and bagging them.  I asked if I could buy one just  to eat with the kids and he smiled, took a beautiful one, chopped it, cleaned it out and chopped the meat into perfect eating-size pieces, all for . ..the bargain of the day, 120 francs, about $1.50.  We saw lots of pearls, anything a woman can do with a pearl, we saw.  Such beautiful jewelry, such a gorgeous thing, the black pearl.  One woman fell in love with the kids and gave them each a lovely pearl!  Travelling with the kids offers
opportunities like this to happen, they are always a good conversation starter, people tend to warm up to us as a group quite quickly.  One man at stall we were all checking  out, enjoyed watching the trainees and was very generous with his knowledge of how  the crafts were made and where the materials came from.  He gave Simon a gorgeous shell and a friendly smile; Simon was very happy and answered, "beaucoup merci."  These kinds of interactions make the visit full; simple connections with the people. sometimes it just takes a smile, ´bonjour,´  and a bit of eye contact and they sense that you care about them and they in return, also offer you a smile.  I´m looking forward to returning to the
market just to see what there is to see.  Trainees have scoped out the  city pretty well, apparently it´s not too huge.  Some of the trainees went to the Pearl Market where different suppliers are set up with their pearls and explain the different grades, qualities, colours, etc. of the pearls.  You can choose from grade A, B, C, or D and they will tell you the thickness of the layer of pearl around the starter pearl and you pay accordingly. Adam said it was quite interesting.  Supper was with 20 of us tonight, chicken, rice and squash, a new vegetable from the market today.  Trainees went out tonight together, into the town to find a place to go dancing; they were pretty excited.  Darcy would like to send a belated Happy Birthday to his cousin Suzy.  Happy Birthday Suzy!  This will be it
for tonight, Skipper has fallen asleep on deck.  I will have to wake him to send this.  The last few nights he has spent much of the time in and out of his bunk, with the different officers on watch; they´re all pretty tired, well deserving of a good, solid sleep. Until tomorrow, good night, Bonice.