Pacific Odyssey - Leg 3

We are anchored outside of Vaitape, the main village on the island of Bora Bora.  It is a beautiful anchorage and the winds have slackened somewhat so we can rest easier tonight (Skipper slept all of 2 hours last night).  All 3 tarps are up; it has already rained this evening.  Last night only Skipper and Sam slept on deck, everyone else finally admitting defeat and suffering through the heat of the hold in their bunks.  It was also the first night in many that it did not rain! Tavish woke up wet from his own sweat and dove straight into the ocean to freshen up.  If you get up early enough, you can get salt water shower from the deck hose when morning duty is cleaning decks; it feels really good.  We raised anchor at 0600hrs and anchored before noon at Bora Bora.  Underway trainees had their pin tests.  This is where the watch officer goes through the ship and asks them what each line and belaying pin does which sail it is attached to.  It is especially important when we head off on a longer passage where we hope to sail most of the time, day and night.  When everyone is able to grab the correct line and help out the watch officers and Skipper, it makes a big difference. Seniors were given a chart work lesson by Jose.  After lunch nearly everyone went ashore.  We landed at a promising-looking dock, but found the island rather unimpressive as we all spent the afternoon walking and hitchhiking, looking for something more interesting.  I found the town and environs dirty and sloppy, strange smells emanating from who knows where, very unlike the other Polynesian villages we´ve spent time in. We found ourselves asking what the appeal of Bora Bora is, the shape and vegetation of the island, and the lagoon around it, is stunning.  I suppose visitors get whisked off to one of the many beautiful resorts around the perimeter of the island and enjoy the luxury of the setting, with everything arranged and organized from the resort.  Crew and trainees were able to buy the proverbial baguette, cheese and fruit juice and have a picnic in the shade of one of the coconut palm-thatched shelters.  We were all quite happy to return to our home and have Gillian waiting for us with a delicious supper of Thai chicken wraps with hoisin, peanut or soy sauce, and salad.  She started the meal at 1400hrs; there was a lot of preparation and rolling of wraps to feed 32 of us.  She does a great job.  Between raising dories and singing grace, we had time for a jump overboard and a swing on the outhaul swing, always fun.  It´s also a great way to feel cleaner, apply some soap and jump in.  After supper people basically just hung out.  In the foc´sle there were the girls playing cards, eating pamplemousse and writing in journals.  In the hold Scott and Simon were listening to Scott´s ipod, Graydon and Paul were journaling, Tristan, Sam and Tom were reading, and Matt was showing me the pearls he bought today.  Graydon also visited the Pearl Market.  On deck there were patches of light from headlamps where several trainees were again, reading or writing.  Several people were chatting and laughing on the foredeck, while Elske and Bec were listening to something very funny on Elske´s ipod and howling in the stern.  A good night. It´s past 2200hrs and everyone is back.  Chase hiked to the top of the tallest mountain and said it was awesome, probably the most difficult hike of the offshore so far.  There are others now who may hike tomorrow. Karen and Katie rented bikes for a few hours and had a wonderful time touring around the island.  We will be here tomorrow and people have plans to dive, cycle, hike, and snorkel.  Jordan and Stephen went to an excellent restaurant for supper tonight; Jordan met a female bosun from another schooner that was built in Lunenburg and has been sailing since March 2006.  He´s quite happy.  The captain had called Skipper earlier, inviting the ´officers´ of our ship to the Hotel Bora
Bora, to meet with them, they had noticed us in Papeete.  This is it, until tomorrow, good night, Bonice.