Pacific Odyssey - Leg 3

Today was a very busy day, but in the end a very good one, a very satisfying one.  We did a complete boat clean which involved emptying every compartment of the ship, both communal and personal.  We´ve thought about doing a thorough clean before, Rarotonga seemed a good place to go through with the idea.  It was an amazing amount of work, but well worth it.  We will spend most of tomorrow continuing to put the boat back together, recreating our living spaces, cleaning up the little messes on deck that come from everyone going through their things, and deciding that some of it is no longer needed.  There was also time to spend in town.  Several trainees were able to catch up with friends and family at home via the internet, and it´s always good to hear their news.  It´s great to hear from trainees from a previous leg, we pass the news around to those who know them; we love news.  The daily newspaper in Rarotonga published an article on the boat along with 3 good photos.  Helen came by yesterday and chatted with Skipper, myself and some of the trainees and we gave her a tour of the boat.  Graydon was in one of the pictures with Caelen, out on the end of the bowsprit.  The woman working at the bank where Graydon was changing some money this morning, said "hi Graydon, I saw you in the paper,"  completely surprising him.  Both Caelen and Graydon enjoyed the occasion to be in the local paper; celebrities for a day.  This morning I fell in the harbour while climbing back on to the zodiac from the dock.  There was a split-second where I sensed that all was not good, and then down I went, completely under.  It was quite funny, everyone was on deck bringing things up from below.  I found a spigot to rinse myself off but a man came by to check out what I was doing and then offered me a shower.  It turns out that there are 2 showers available for boaters, free of  charge.  We now have a system of signing out the key and being able to take a shower, in a stall, without our clothes on!  What a thought, what a luxury!  We´ve been told they were hot, but mine was definitely cold and so were Skipper and Karen´s.  Not complaining though, fresh water is one thing we appreciate.  We returned to our favorite coffee shop and will try to squeeze one more excellent cappuccino in tomorrow.  The kids and I found an excellent gelato place, where gelato is made daily on the island;  2 large scoops for NZ$3; a good deal.  We´re finding prices are still quite steep here, better than French Polynesia though. Chase rented a car and toured the island. Tomorrow him and Scott have planned to join a fishing charter and enjoy some fishing.  Tom is trying to organize a dive; tanks and fills are more available here than in French Polynesia.  Many of us were able to get our laundry done; it always feels wonderful to have clean clothes again and, especially, clean sheets, pillow cases, and towels.  Clean sheets and a fresh water shower before bed . . . is there anything better?  Skipper, the three boys and I had 2 hours together and decided to get on the local bus and tour the island.  We had a great ride; it really is a beautiful and dramatic island.  There are only 2 buses that cover the island; one route is called ´Clockwise,´ and the other is called ´Counterclockwise,´ they cost the same.  Most of the perimeter was populated with simple dwellings, with the major resorts situated on the south shore, where the lagoon and the beaches are beautiful. Vegetation is lush everywhere and very green.  We saw many fruit trees; papaya, coconut, banana, mango, breadfruit, noni . . . we want more fruit and hoping it will be more available on the smaller, more remote islands.  There are very many peaks along a middle range of mountains, all covered with a large variety of foliage, very pretty.   Another thing we notice everywhere are gravestones.  People often bury their dead on their property, sometimes even extending their roof to allow the ancestors to continue feeling a part of the family.  There are a few larger graveyards, but many houses have 2 or 3 coffin-sized cement tombstones and possibly a headstone in front of their house.  In Samoa I think one finds the same thing.  I read that this began with the influenza epidemic, where graveyards could no longer keep up with containing the dead and so the family would take over and bury them at home. Interesting.  It was nice to leave the village and see the rest of the island.  Tonight Stephen Duff had to return home.  He is flying to Fiji, where, we´ve heard, there has been a coup.  We will miss Stephen, his time with us was so short, but we sure enjoyed his company.  Tav´s sister Miray is having a birthday today and Tav asked if I could wish her a Happy Birthday. Happy Birthday Miray, from Tav.  Have a wonderful day with your incredible family.  This is it again. We will be spending one more day here, then leaving sometime Sunday morning for Aitutaki.  The next two islands are very remote and we look forward  to what awaits us. Time for bed.  Until tomorrow, good night, Bonice.