Pacific Odyssey - Leg 5

As we approached within 80-100 nm of the mouth of the Yangtze River, we were suddenly surrounded by the lights of many fishing boats.  As far as the eye could see and for the entire night, there were these pin pricks of light, sometimes up to 60 at a time.  On the radar there were another 50 ´targets (boats in the vicinity but not visible to the naked eye)´ somewhere ´out there.´  It was quite something: it meant for constant vigil and monitoring, especially as some of the fish boats had a total disregard for ´normal´ rules of the road and would cut in front of us within close range.  This morning there were still boats all around us, both fish boats and very large freighters.  The day dawned clear and cold with a beautifully calm and glassy sea.  All day there has been a haze over the water: we thought initially it was fog but then realized it is probably pollution in the air.  There was a beautiful orange sunset tonight, again with a film of something around it.  We changed our clocks back an hour today to match Shanghai time.  The sun was warm enough to enjoy an hour or so on deck mid-day.  After an early lunch everyone worked together to spruce up the ship for tomorrow´s entry into Shanghai.  The grace looks wonderful: all the stove pipes were polished, all the ironwork was wire brushed and painted black, the funnels were painted, the covering board along the edge of the deck planking was given a coat of stain, all the houses were scrubbed clean and some of the deck box lids were sanded and oiled, as were the cap rails.  Below deck the galley stove, the pipe and the stainless steel walls were polished: even the metal tea kettle was scrubbed till it shone.  We are ready to show our beautiful ship to the people of china.  We had one sitting for supper, everyone squeezing below as it is too cold now to eat on deck.  Tiana, Amanda and Chris helped with supper.  After dishes we held a Sunday service in the hold where everyone had a chance to describe themselves, their gifts and how they see themselves changing.  Others were able to add comments as to the gifts they see in these people.  It was an excellent exchange and opportunity to build each other up: both learning to give and receive confirmation.  We will be raising anchor at 0200hrs tomorrow and traveling the few miles to where the pilot will board at 0500hrs.  We are fortunate that our trip down the river is in daylight: there should be lots to look at.  Gillian has been posting slips of paper with Chinese phrases all over the ship i.e. in the heads are the words ´toilet´ and ´where is the toilet?,´  all around the ship you can hear people practicing their phrases.  Until tomorrow, good night, Bonice.