Pacific Odyssey - Leg 5

We´ve had another absolutely interesting day; this city is so big and so varied and there is so much to notice.  Nearly everyone left the boat at some time today to explore.  After supper tonight a group of about 16 trainees and crew left for Beijing by train.  They will take a 14hr train ride and then spend 2 or 3 days visiting The Great Wall, Tiananmen Square, and the Forbidden City before returning again by a night train.  I am looking forward to hearing of their adventures; they were very excited.  The 3 boys and I left the boat in the morning and spent the entire day in downtown Shanghai, walking and looking; we had a fantastic day and made it back just in time for supper. The weather is absolutely beautiful, clear blue skies and cold temperatures.  Mid-day the sun even had some warmth.  I walked in my sandals as I have a sore toe and all day the Chinese pointed to my feet, stared, and tried to sell me some shoes. People in the streets approach us constantly, trying to sell us something; unfortunately one becomes good at answering ´no thank you´ or ´bu jaie´ and then just ignoring them and walking on.  We were warned against this; if you give them the slightest indication of interest they´ll stick like glue and hassle you incessantly.  It´s a bit sad, such a difference from Japan where they go out of their way in their respect for us and for each other.  The Chinese seem quite different in that regard.  To us they almost seem rude; focused more on their own needs.  Whereas the Japanese were interested in us and wanted to look at us, but didn´t, the Chinese stare at us for long periods of time and don´t smile or say hello as easily to bridge the awkwardness; I don´t think they feel it or think about it in the same way.  There are so many people everywhere and in every direction you look, you see very tall buildings; many are apartments of 50-80 floors where people live. There are narrow streets everywhere and they all seem full of bikes, scooters and pedestrians, all in a hurry to get somewhere.  I tried walking down one with the boys but after a block we turned around, it seemed too risky with all the bike traffic!  At intersections, even if there are lights and it´s red, commuters continue through anyways . . . it´s amazing.  The bikes are well used.  Many of them look quite old and most are incredibly dirty.  We saw many bikes loaded with bundles sticking 1metre out on each side and at least 1 metre high.  People were cycling with bundles of plastic, sticks, cardboard, garbage . . . all packed on the back and fronts of their bikes. One fellow carried about 15 sticks of sugar cane each 6 ft high and he would stop on the side of the road and peel them with his big Chinese knife, and then chop them into 30 cm chunks and bag them for a customer.  Another fellow had nine 5 gallon jugs of water strapped to his bike . . . it´s fascinating to see.  We walked back to the boat during rush hour and the bikes and scooters were a solid pack on the roads.  The buses honked their way down the street, while the bikes rang their bells and the scooters honked their horns.  We met several women in a small corner store close to the boat that we´ve now frequented a few times.  They enjoy the boys and came to try to chat.  People ask regularly if all the boys are mine; this is a country that tries to enforce a one-child per family policy, and for them to see me with my kids takes them by surprise.  They ask my age and where I´m from; this much we are able to communicate. It´s probably a good thing I don´t have the ability to tell them I also have 3 girls!  We have a wonderful spot on the river.  All day traffic is moving cargo from one spot to the other via the river.  Many of the vessels look like barges with a house on the stern.  There is very little freeboard; the boats sit very low in the water.  We enjoy watching all the different boats; it is a well-used river.  We can see the entire city of Shanghai from where we are tied up.
At night we see the hundreds of skyscrapers lit up, just like the pictures one sees in the travel posters for Shanghai, quite beautiful.  This is it, thank you again for all the mail and the parcels.  We are well and happy. Good night, Bonice.